A week before Christmas, ten members of the Rugby School Polo squad
escaped the worsening weather of the British Isles, for the Caribbean and a
training week at the Knolford Polo Ranch in the heart of Jamaica. Our host was
Mark Harris, a veteran of the game with twenty-five years experience to boast,
and around an hour from Kingston is the Knolford Ranch; his home and polo club.
Idyllically positioned in a small tropical valley, with a fine villa providing
excellent accommodation, the stage is set for polo in paradise! This was to be
our base for the next week, with all needs generously provided for.
Polo has been played in Jamaica since its introduction in 1882, by the
West India Regiment, when Jamaica was a part of the British empire. By the end
of the nineteenth century, civilians were playing, clubs were formed, and today
there are five main clubs on the island. There are around fifty players, of all
ages, and ranging from four or five goals downwards. They share the same summer
season as the UK, and so whilst our visit was at a conveniently quiet time, the
weather was also ideal (- something reminiscent of the height of a particularly
pleasant British summer!).
Our package at Knolford included five days of polo, with a couple of days
set-aside for day trips around the island. All the polo was played at the
Knolford ground, on Mark Harris' ponies - his string of around sixty (most
likely all of Jamaican stock) is the largest in Jamaica. The polo days followed
a similar pattern. Each morning we would arise early (an undertaking made
somewhat easier by a very favourable time difference!), and after a substantial
breakfast, stick and balling was the first activity on the agenda, so as to make
the most of the cool. Timings were fairly Latin American! So all the stresses of
getting here, there or wherever, at the right time were evaded - a wonderful
contrast to School! With a varying level of ability in our group, we were able
to split into two smaller groups so that Mark Harris, who was also our coach for
the week, could cater for specific needs. On one morning we rode out around the
Knolford estate, through the orchards and up the nearby Rio D'Oro River; one
could almost spend a week just exploring the completely secluded and quiet
picturesque surroundings. After the morning session, the rest of the morning and
early afternoon were free for us to do as we may, making the most of the pool,
tennis courts, and most of all, sunshine and enjoy the superbly and constantly
stocked pool cooler! We were all able to join in chukkas from about four
o'clock, with players of all ages and standards from across the island - an
ideal opportunity to apply the tuition of the morning in actual play. With there
not being many players on the island, especially in 'deepest winter', all the
players tend to meet up at specific clubs for chukkas, quite neatly preventing
any of the pitches becoming too cut up (though in the twenty-five to thirty
chukkas we saw on the Knolford ground, the pitches remained remarkably
unscathed). In preparation for the charity match, which we were to have on our
third day, against young Jamaica, we played several chukkas against the members
of this side, and then with some of the stronger players on the island later on
in the week.
Evenings were spent relaxing, by the bar, in the pool, indoors, or
outdoors. The tropical climate ensured that it was never cold, so we could
simply do as we pleased. It's the first time I've ever felt completely
unhindered by the weather; our return to the UK would prove quite a shock!
Generally the combination of an active and tiring day, a touch of jet lag, good
food and drink, drew everyone to bed curiously promptly - Quite something for a
group of ten teenagers!
The climax of our week was a charity match against 'young Jamaica', a
side organised by the Jamaican captain, Mark Wates, in aid of the mustard-seed
charity. Hence, on the Sunday we found ourselves in front of a crowd of around
five hundred, lining up to be introduced to the BritiSh High Commissioner, who
took the first throw-in to start the match. It was hard-fought, and very even
until the last chukka. Despite having been up early getting plenty of fluids
down, there was no beating the Caribbean sun, hence, by the fourth chukka, the
tiredness was really beginning to show, along with a lack of familiarity of
horses. The final result, 5- 2 to the home side, was perhaps suitable given that
it was the Jamaican youth side's first ever international match, however we do
hope to host a return fixture this summer! Immediately following this, we were
treated to an exhibition match of Jamaica's best eight. Despite being right out
of season, and there being no professional players in Jamaica, this competitive
twelve-goal exhibition match was to prove quite thrilling, even if the result
didn't matter to us 'visiting' spectators. It was certainly something to aspire
to! In all, forty thousand Jamaican dollars (around £500) was raised for the
Mustard Seed Communities charity which provides a home and support for disabled
and sick Jamaican children.
Members of the squad who were not actually in the team entertained some
of the Mustard Seed Children bused to the ranch, taking them riding - the first
time any of them had been near a horse, let alone on one! It gave them real
pleasure and for our part it was a small practical involvement in support of a
very worthwhile charity. The day was rounded off with an afternoon and evening
of partying around the pool - classic Jamaican stuff!
With Jamaica's economy being largely dependent on tourism there was
plenty for us to see and do in our time off; spoilt for choice we ended up
spending a day at a cosy little cove - Frenchman's Cove. White sand, blue sea,
and all tucked away by jungle-covered cliffs on either side; what's more, we had
it all to ourselves. Our second excursion was to the Dunn's River Falls, about
two hundred metres of cascades going into the sea on the northern coast, and
though quite crowded when the cruise ships are in, it's definitely a site worth
seeing.
All in all it was paradise. Being able to play outdoors, in the middle of
winter, is terrific, even if coping with a cold return to reality was always
going to be inevitable. Mark Harris was terrific; a superb host, and an
excellent coach too. The astounding improvements in the play of at least several
near beginners, and a remainder of novices are quite a testament to this. The
best of luck to him with the Knolford Ranch. We were made exceptionally welcome
by all the Jamaicans we met and were entertained generously by all. There is
something easy going about the Jamaican lifestyle; any hitches never really
seeming that serious, and come our departure flight's substantial delay, I, for
one, felt oddly unconcerned. I guess I didn't want to leave! So huge thanks to
Mark Harris, Mark Wates, who organised the Jamaican juniors, and all those who
sponsored the charity match. We hope to see you in England soon.
Nick Warner
Captain of Polo, Rugby
School.
